Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Day 3? in Paris: Getting Fat and Da Vinci Code

So Les and I have been pretty proud of ourselves so far, since we walk an avg of about 5 miles per day since we arrived in Europe. You pretty much have to since we have no car, and museums, city walks, getting lost, etc, end up requiring much foot moving. So of course, this much walking means a thinner waist and lost lbs, right? Well, normally yes, but not in Paris, the land of butter and cheese. I think today alone, we ate probably 6 different times, trying out the local flavor and eats, but we haven't been disappointed once. They are quite particular about their pastries and boy, it makes the Marie's donuts back home seem like day old bread. But, I digress...I'll move onto today's expedition and observations in Paris (Day 3, I think).

Today, Les and I decided to get an early start since we wanted to cover the rest of Paris on our bus tour. When people say you need at least a week to explore Paris, it's very true. London, we covered pretty much in 2 days, but Paris has so many museums, giant landmarks, restaurants, neighborhoods, shopping areas, that at least 4-5 days is needed. After a quick fruit and banana breakfast, we head off. Les has been complaining about being cold, so we decide to get her some gloves to wear around. Well, as luck would have it, we find a glove specialty store that gets her fitted with a nice pair of cashmere gloves for about 140 Euro. She is hestitant to buy them, until I offer to pay for it. Well, that should buy me some credit on the irritation meter.

Armed with her newly minted handwear, we head off to get our bus stop near the Place de la Concorde, which is the giant Monelith area where they guillotined everyone back in the day. Along the way, we pass by a nice patesserie (or pastry shop) so we decide to get a few treats for the day. Let me say this: when the pastries are wrapped in a Tiffany-like green bag with little rope handles, you know the food will not suck. It most definitely did not.

Hit the Eiffel Tower, which after 3 days of seeing it again, still is pretty cool. Really, Vegas doesn't do it justice. As we head up to the top, I realize that I am still afraid of heights, but feels pretty cool when I pretend that I'm Superman and flying upward. I think one person laughed when I had my arms up. Up here, Paris is actually very big. Think Russian Hill times 100. All the buildings are mostly apartments of about 5 stories high of the same architecture, with cafes and specialty shops lining the ground floor. I think that's why food is so good here...with space being so limited (not too many big restaurants or chains), cafes, pastry, bakery shops are all that could really fit in the fronts. With so many around the corner, they need to compete on quality to stay around. which means, we win.

Next up, the Rodin Museum. I have no idea who this guy Rodin is, but Les is bent on seeing this guy for some reason. Well, turns out he sculpted the Thinker. The museum is a bit different than the other places we've been too...it's like a garden with his works all over the place. Here, I learn something else about us...we can go a good solid 40 minutes of museum walking before boredom sets in and we start taking pictures of us mimicing the artwork. It helps pass the time trying to squeeze in a pose or 2 between the museum people walking around. I feel a little disrespectful for some reason to the artist, but heck, they should have put in more entertainment for us in the beginning.

Lunch-time now calls for a cafe stop near the museum, and I resist the urge to get another Steak Tartare. Les gets an omelette with cheese and I get a simple hot dog. Simple foods right? Nope. I don't know how the French make omelettes, but when I make them, it don't taste like that. Heck, even my hot dog was made with a fresh baguette and tons of melted cheese on top. Did I mention that I'm lactose intolerant? The toilet will be punished later.

So now that we've gone through the major sites, we head over to St. Sulpice a few blocks away. Why here? Well, it's one of the key plot points in the Da Vinci Code, and yes, I'm a Dan Brown groupie. His books are pretty formulaic plot-wise, but I do like the historical references (real or made-up). Anyways, this is the church that houses the famous Rose Line and the monolith inside the church where the evil dude tries to find the keystone, only to be duped and gets mad and kicks some ass. As we go in, I find that we're definitely not the only Da Vinci Code book lovers as a pretty good crowd is already taking pictures of the pieces. I'll admit it was pretty awesome, whether or not the history is accurate or not. But I become more convinced when I read a sign that the Church posted up saying the book is not real, and that the line and monolith are astronomic tools used to measure the winter/summer solstice. I smell BS. I start looking for more clues to Jeebus and his wife.

Not finding any, unfortunately, we head a few blocks over to the Pantheon. But a side story here: one thing about France is that people LOVE to smoke. They'll smoke at cafes, walking down the street, while riding a scooter, and sometimes while on a bike with no hands. Committed they are. Well, all of this smoking outdoors struck a chord with me when we first got here, so I wanted to live like a Parisian and smoke as well. Well, here's where it gets dicey. For 3 days, 3 DAYS, I cannot find a dang place that sells cigarettes! How weird is that? Everyone smokes like a chimney, but no one sells them! People must roll their own or something. Well, at this point, I don't really care about smoking but I'm on a personal quest to get that which eludes me. Finally, after trying so desperately to see if I could find the answer myself, I ask the shopkeep where to buy them, and he points me in the direction of a tobacco shop. How anti-climatic. We end up getting a pack, but I smoke one and stop. The chase was really the fun part I guess.

Ok, back on track: Pantheon. It's basically another big ol building with tons of columns and arches, and domes. I don't remember how many pictures I've taken over the past 3 days that show the exact same thing, and how I'll ever tell it apart, but I guess it'll prove that I was there when I lose my memory down the line. The only cool thing is that it houses the graves of famous French people, like Voltaire and the Braille guy. The Braille guy has a nice little plaque that has, of course, braille along his name. And of course, everyone does the required swiping of the fingers across the braille as if they could read it. Including me. Now, boredom again sets in and Les and I converse about how many possible hidden trap doors or rooms there are. I try to look for some clues, but I give up soon after.

Day is coming to a close, so we head back on the bus, but not before getting more fattening pastries for the road. I rationalize that the French are not fat after eating these foods all the time, so it must be ok with us too...plus, these are fresh foods, and not packaged ones like home where it contains high fructose corn syrup that makes us fat. Makes sense, right? Drive around the south-east part of Paris; this time by the Bastille where the prisoners escaped or something. Not sure, but this is probably the most boring tour leg so far. But good news, Green Day is coming to Paris October 3!

Now that the busses are retired for the day, we have to hike it back to our hotel from the Lourve area. 20 min later, and we make it to our little hotel, and crash out onto the bed. An hour later, wake and run to the gourmet food store down the block for some dinner. Tomorrow, we finally hit the Louvre. It better be good.

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